Pet Pigs

In This Section....

  1. Thinking About Getting A Pig?
  2. Pigs Avalible For Adoption
  3. How To Adopt
  4. Pig Husbandry

 

 

 

1) Thinking Of Getting A Pig?

Pigs require;

  1. Strong fencing, even small pigs easily smash their way through normal garden fencing.
  2. A large area, pigs are very intelligent and need a large area to roam and stimulation. If they are confined, they get bored and can become destructive.
  3. Companionship, pigs must never be kept on their own, they must be in groups of at least 2.
  4. Boars must be castrated as soon as they are old enough or they can become aggressive.
  5. A good diet including pet pig food (not commercial as they will get fat), also fruit and vegetables.
  6. Cover such as a pig arc with clean straw bedding
  7. Pigs can be kept indoors and can be house training, however they need space so must also have access to outdoors most of the time and remember, pigs can be quite destructive, they will soon turn a lawn into a mud bath, they can rip up carpets and even pull doors off kitchen cupboards to get to food.
  8. You need to be aware of the regulations regarding the keeping and registering of pigs, as they as classed as a farm animal

These points are covered in further detail below.

 

2) Pigs Avalible For Adoption

Humphrey

Status : Available

This is Humphrey. He is a 4 year old castrated Pot-belly boar. Unwanted, this little fellow has been here since 2014. Humphrey is a vocal pig who does enjoy fuss - however he does has a tendency to nip. He wouldn't be suitable around children but he would make a great pet for those with teenagers. He need to be rehomed with another pig.

Matilda & Gertrude

Status: Available

Matilda ( the spotted) and Gertrude are two 5 year old Kune- Kune sows. Unwanted, they have been here since 2013. These two gentle girls love to snooze all day and will come out to say hello to you. Matilda is the leader whereas Gertrude tends to hang back a little. They are looking for a forever home together.

3) How To Adopt

We ask for a minimum donation of £60 per pig to help with housing and castration costs. 

You can make an appointment to see our pigs. Please note we are not open to the general public and you will need to make a appointment.

Calling us at 01733 712 999

sending us a email at info@brinsleyanimalrescue.org

Or contacting us through facebook at Brinsley Animal Rescue

2)  We will need to see photographic evidence of your set up before arrangement of re-homing. We can discuss with you any questions you have on the personality of the animals, set up concerns or moving concerns. 

3) Once we have agreed that you are suitable we will then bring the animal to you and conduct a home check.

For further information regarding the adoption of a animal please click here to read our policy.

 

4) Pig Husbandry

Fencing For Pigs

No matter how big or small the pig is, it still has the strength to barge through or lift up fencing. Unless you want to be chasing pigs around your yard, strong fencing is a must for keeping these curious creatures in their paddocks.

You have two choices when it comes to fencing: Wooden or electric - or some people use a combination of the two.

Wooden

Posts: 3"-5" inch wooden posting is reccomended. Of course the thicker the post the more durable the overall fence will be; As pigs have a habit of chewing and rubbing against fencing.

Rails: Four rails per fence post section. For small breed pigs ( pot belly, Kune Kune and vietnamese ) 10 feet x3" x1" sized railings.

Height: Since pigs do not usually jump or climb. The height of the fence is usually 2-3 feet tall. Adjust accordingly if you have a large breed pig.

Wire: Some people prefer to put stock mesh around the bottom of the fence. This helps to prevent the pigs from chewing the wood as well as adding an extra barrier to prevent barging. It can also replace wooden railings. Use 2.5 - 3 mm thick sheep or cattle mesh. Do not use chicken mesh as this is weaker. Your posts should be 5-6 yards apart with the corner posts being reinforced by diagonal support posts. ( This is seen in picture one below to the left)

Reinforce the bottom: As pigs dig with their nose it is natural for them to try and up root the bottom rail or even the posts. Some people put an extra layer of wood at the bottom to prevent this. Others use logs, rocks or even barbed wire - but that option seems very extreme. ( this is seen in picture 2 below in the centre)

Electric

Harsh to some people and a saviour to some, this method involves the use of an electric current through a wire to keep pigs in. Plus its a portible option if you wish to move your pigs around for grazing, not to mention cheaper than knocking up a wooden fence.

For some pigs, electric fencing simply does not work. They do not associate the zap as a negaitive response and therefore will keep trying and trying. We've even known pigs to barge straight through electric fencing and get themselves tangled in it.

What you need to set up electric fencing:

  • Wire, tape or mesh fencing
  • Posts or fixtures
  • Energiser or charger
  • An electrical source such as a battery, the mains or even solar power!
  • Electrical Earth

To setup electric livestock fencing: wire, electrical tape, or mesh is setup along a path. This path often contains the area where your pigs are to be kept.Wire height is determined by the size of your pigs. Rule of thumb is one wire 4″-6″ high, and another 12″ high. If want to use a third strand of electrical wire set it around 24″ high. These are only rough guides, alter them as you see fit.

The fencing wire is isolated from the ground, using posts or other fence wire holders. These holders are made from non-conductive materials such as plastic, rubber, metal covered with a non conductive coating. Metal T-posts are another common way to hold your electrical fencing wire in place. If you want to connect your wire to existing wooden structures – such as existing fencing posts, trees, sheds – use something to isolate the wire from the wood. This can be an eyelet designed for use with electrical animal fencing, or it can be piece of plastic (at least a few millimetres thick), or a piece of rubber.

An energizer is they used to convert energy from a battery, or your mains electric, into a suitable charge for your fencing. This charge is designed to shock you, but not kill you. A shock of this sort is often high in voltage (around 3500v-7000v for pigs) but low in amps. At the minimum use an energizer that can produce a charges of 2.5 joules with 6 joules being the maximum if needed. If you are fencing a large amount of land (20 acre or more) use a 15 joule energizer for every 20-30 acres. For example,  70 acres would require 3X15 joule energizers.

In a portable fencing systems, a battery will be used to power the energizer. Car batteries are okay for this task, but they will need regular charging to keep the fence working. The older and cheaper the car battery, the quicker the charge will deplete – requiring more frequent charging. A deep cycle battery is the best type of battery to use with electrical fencing. These batteries are designed to power electrical appliances in motor homes and caravans. They will hold their charge better, and they will last longer – the overall life of the battery is much greater when compared with a car battery. If you are looking to buy a battery specifically for your fencing setup, choose a deep cycle battery. You can use a solar charger to keep your fence and battery charged. However; these devices are not perfect. Like anything solar they are dependent on the sun in your area. Also, they might not provide sufficient charge if you plan to use them on a large electrical fencing system. Feeding your energizer from the mains is one option. Obviously you need to step down your main electricity to the input on your energizer – usually a 12 volt input. Feeding your fence via this method is great as it’s often more reliable when compared with battery setups.

This electrical charge is fired through the wire as a stream, or a pulse. However; the electrical fencing circuit does not complete until something connects it with the ground, allowing the current to earth. That something might be a pig or even yourself if you ever grab hold of your fence.

When your pig touches the fence the circuit is complete, and the electrical current will ground, providing a shock for the animal.

Be wary of any grass or plants touching your electric fence as this will drain the current and will make the fence less effective.

Here is a home video on electric fencing

( information source Kippax Farm; accessed 2016)
Electric Fencing